Day 21 - Of temples golden, service to thousands, cheer competitions, and deceitful drivers.

It was a bittersweet day. I saw some amazing things but also experienced some blatant dishonesty. To start things off, Babli purchased some chai (tea) on the train and asked how much it would be. She was told Rs10. The man then served those around her and they each paid Rs5. When she asked about the difference in price he smugly responded, "I didn't think you would have change." Are you kidding me? 

I was met at the train by Vakeel and Amit (Sam). Vakeel works at the Air Force base in Amritsar and it was arranged that he would be my escort. Amit served as our driver. While in Delhi, Santusht and I had a discussion about me traveling in Amritsar alone and my comment was, "I usually travel alone and have no problem but I know that for you it is important for someone to be with me so while I have been here I am willing to do whatever you want." Needless to say, I was accompanied. The care that people here take for me is incredible.

After 'freshening up' (they all call it that here- the British English comes out frequently here) we went to the Golden Temple. It is the most holy place for Sikh followers. Learning about their religion was very interesting. Basically they originated as a military force to protect Hindus from Muslim invaders. The temple was architecturally breath taking. I don't remember the year it was built but it is built in the middle of a large pool and is said to bear 750 kg of gold. I sat and took in the atmosphere of pilgrims washing themselves in the holy water and examined the building. 

A favorite experience while here in India was eating at the Lagar which is attached to the temple grounds. Anyone is welcome to enjoy the complementary food (donations welcome) provided by the army of volunteers that feed 60,000 to 80,000 daily. We joined the line and were handed a divided plate, spoon, and bowl. We were led to the second floor with a group of about 1000 - 2000. The doors to a large room were opened and we sat in lines on matting throughout. I noticed that I was the only non-Indian in the room (as far as I could tell). First we were served chapatis as we held out our hands and they were thrown in. Another volunteer came around with a large bucket and long-handled ladle to slosh some spaghetti-like sweet dish (which I thought was really good). Then some dahl was served in a similar manner. I just loved being there with so many people sitting on the floor as volunteers served such wonderful food. As we were leaving, I saw the HUGE pots that the food was being cooked in. As we exited we saw the women who were cutting the vegetables and then the commotion of about 200 dish washers. 

We then went to Jalliawala Bagh which is where the British opened fire on un-armed non-violent protesters in 1919. 

Here begins the bitter of the day. The driver, Amit, asked if I would like to see his office for his other job. I of course agreed. I love to see where people work. As he attempted to impress me by showing off his driving skills (there was a marked difference than from previous driving he had done) it literally reminded me of a video game. We arrived at his work and I expected to spend about 10-15 mins so he could show me around and explain what he does there. We first sat down in a conference room and were given water. Then I was led into the office of his boss. Then he disappeared. I didn't know where he went. As I began speaking with his boss, it became very obvious that I was being sold life insurance and investing. I frankly told him that I was not interested but figured since I was there I would find out about how it works in India. I spent about 30 minutes in there. When I was done, they didn't really know what to do with me so I got up and then was led to another office. There, two other employees were more or less hanging out. Vakeel was with me the entire time. After being in that office for about another 30 minutes and asking where Amit was and when he would be back with mixed answers I grew frustrated. I was in Amritsar India, I didn't want to be in some office! After some convincing of Vakeel (through the workers there - Vakeel did not speak English very well), I got up and left. I said I was going for a walk. As my escort, Vakeel grudgingly followed. It was 1pm and it was hot. I frequently asked when Amit would be ready and the consistent answer I received was "5 mins". We walked about 3 km before I decided to turn around. We walked back to an air conditioned mall to wait for Amit. In total, I lost about 3 hours while the driver I had hired was out. When he came back, he had even changed his clothes.

We then went to the labynthian Hindu 'Mata Temple' followed by a very peculiar display of patriotism. At the border between India and Pakistan where tensions are high and relations are rough, we spectated at the closing ceremony which is performed each evening. I frankly did not enjoy it. I was hoping for a much different experience. What I witnessed was reminiscent of a high school pep rally complete with bleachers, cheers, choreographed routines, uniforms which would only be able to be worn at such an event, and the audience taunting the competition. Stands were set up on each side of the border and you could see and hear those on the Pakistan side. I was invited by one of the soldiers to have a front row seat but Amit refused because he complained it would be too hard to find me after (as a note, it will never be hard to find me in India - no matter the size of the crowd). That again was frustrating. I stood at the very back and just watched the singular scene. The announcer started cheers and had a dance party in front for anyone to join. The goal seemed to be to be louder and more obnoxious than the Pakistanis. The soldiers did a routine that was obviously for show as they nearly kicked themselves in the head in an attempt to 'intimidate' the Pakistani soldiers mimicking the same moves. Interestingly, the soldiers where as tall as I am. I later learned that is also an attempt to intimidate.

Before going to the train station, we went back to the Golden Temple because I wanted to see it at night. It was pretty cool with the light reflecting off the gold at different angles. Now the kicker: As I boarded the train I paid the driver the agreed amount with a tip. He then corrected me and explained that I owed a substantial amount more. I really didn't care about the money. If I owed him more money, I had no problem paying. The problem was the terrible service (I do not feel I am able to convey well my experience with them) and the intent of lying some more money out of me. After discussing the issue, I did pay him (money I still feel he did not deserve).

On the train back I spoke with a 14 year old kid who was shocked that I would start a conversation with him. I taught him some of my 'tricks' that I showed his 6 year old brother and we talked about him wanting to become an astronaut and answered questions he had about America.