Day 4 - Luxury Hotel

Bailhongal I think is kannada for 'it's going to take a while to get here from anywhere'. I have finally reached my first destination. After a 30 hour flight schedule, 13 hour train ride, then hour long drive, I am here. I still wonder sometimes how I came to be in India, in Kanataka, in Bailhon...where? I think it is pretty awesome, and I love it. This really is an amazing experience. When I got off the train, I began looking for someone who had a sign with my name on it. That is when you know you have reached celebrity status, when your name is on a sign for a driver to take you somewhere (sorry Aprameya for letting you down in Bangalore by changing my plans). I did not see my name anywhere then a 21 year old kid walked up and gave me a piece of paper. I unfolded it to read "JOE". He didn't even hesitate to give it to me. I was the only white person within 500 miles and more, the only person you could see at the other end of the train station. There was no sneaking up for me. On the drive from Belgaum to Bailhongal, the usual honking to let someone know you are passing, the missing oncoming traffic by no more than a foot to get ahead of the oxen-drawn cart, the weaving in and out of potholes while dodging scooters and pedestrians, etc. all occurred. My broken conversation with the driver led to little information; his name is Ishvar, he is the driver, an older brother and younger sister, 21 years old. 'Yes sir (suh)' was the most common response.

Although I am in the middle of nowhere, I feel like I am at a luxury resort. The home of Rohini and Subhash Neginhal is very accommodating. It actually took me off guard. I have my own room upstairs with my own bathroom (complete with toilet, toilet paper, and a sliding door dividing the shower from the rest of the room!). I forgot my toiletries bag in Bangalore so that information was passed on while I was on the train and a toothbrush, razor, and shaving cream were awaiting me. After breakfast and a nice shower I went across the street to the hospital to shadow Dr. Neginhal. What an interesting experience. Over the next couple of days I will have the opportunity to share some of the experiences I have had while observing a pediatrician in rural India. Doctors in the US will see about 4 patients in an hour and a max of 48 in a day. Subash Uncle will see around a hundred in a day. Most appointments take 4-7mins. He is very efficient. While seeing these patients, he is also managing the rest of the hospital. He makes rounds at least 3 times a day. The schedule is, 12pm to when there are no more patients, usually around 4 pm. Then he returns at 7:30 until no more patients, usually around 9:30. The clinic is across the street from his home so going back and forth is not a problem.

Subhash Uncle and Rohini Aunty are wonderful hosts. They were both very excited to meet me and have been extremely accommodating. They have made their day revolve around me which is sometimes uncomfortable but I am getting used to it. I am not accustomed to people serving me as they are constantly doing.

Some things that I want to talk about are not things that occur on that day but rather I see on a continual basis. As an Indian is listening, at least here in Bailhongal, he will always do two things. First, he will bobble his head. That is really the best way to describe it. It is as if they become a bobble head and they shake for a second. It stops and then it will come back after a couple of seconds. I love it. They also will repeat 'uhn' or 'unh' as they make this motion. Both serve to acknowledge that they are listening. Bringing in a child to the doctor is a family affair. Usually it will be the child carried by the grandmother followed by the mother to explain what is wrong. A very comfortable way to sleep is when it is hot, turn on a ceiling fan right above you and don't use any covers. Amazing.